Sun Kosi River

This epic journey began with a 3 hour bus ride east out of Kathmandu on a bus loaded up with 9 participants, 5 river staff and guides and all our gear stashed in the rear and on top of the vehicle. Classic photo of a river trip off to a great start. This river trip is 10 days and takes you through some of the most remote and rural parts of Nepal. There are barely roads in this area and the people here are cut off from the rest of country.

We happened to be travelling at the start of the biggest festival of the year. Dashain is the longest and the most auspicious festival in the Nepalese annual calendar, celebrated by Nepalese of all caste and creed throughout the country. The fifteen days of celebration occurs during the bright lunar fortnight ending on the day of the full moon. Thorough out the kingdom of Nepal the goddess Durga in all her manifestations are worshiped with innumerable pujas, abundant offerings and thousands of animal sacrifices for the ritual holy bathing, thus drenching the goddess for days in blood.  In preparation for Dashain every home is cleansed and beautifully decorated, painted as an invitation to the mother goddess, so that she may visit and bless the house with good fortune. During this time the reunion of distant and nearby relatives occur in every household. The market is filled with shoppers seeking new clothing, gifts, luxuries and enormous supplies of temple offering for the gods, as well as foodstuffs for the family feasting. Thousands of sheep, goats, ducks, chicken and water buffalo are prepared for the great slaughter. All types of organisations are closed for ten to fifteen days. Labourers are almost impossible to find; from the poor to the rich, all enjoy the festive mood.

The end of our trip should have been a 16 hour bus ride back to Kathmandu but it coincided with the end of this festival which turned our drive into a 23 hour marathon of bus breakdowns, accidents and delays. When this country of near 30 million people try to mobilize and move around, it can't be fluid ... the roads are terrible and the infrastructure has not supported the massive growth in this country. When travelling in Nepal you need to be flexible. If you are schedule oriented or only have a certain block of time, don't come to Nepal.

The Sun Kosi river starts from Dolalghat and flows down to Chatra covering 272 kms. The Sun Kosi is one of the ten best rafting trips in the world. Big rapids, warm water, no roads or towns, beautiful scenery and great camping. Sun Kosi means 'River of Gold', the river rises near Tibet and is joined by the Bhote Kosi and flows eastwards in Nepal through the great valley between the Mahabharat Lekh mountains and the Himalaya. It forms the watershed for most of eastern Nepal and gathering strength from tributaries draining the highest mountains in the world it emerges onto the northern plains of India where it joins the Ganges.   

To try to describe what this trip was like visually is nearly impossible for my tired and battered mind and body after surviving the epic return trip so I will let the photos do the work for now.




Unloading the bus at the beginning of the Sun Kosi. 

  


Some girls come to check out the action.

 

Local Nepali boy doing cartwheels ...



and back handsprings!




Nepali kids come to visit our camp. Infatuated with the digital camera and seeing themselves.

 




Organizing a soccer match with the kids.

 

Riverside camp.



Bonfires every night.

 


American kayaker Evan spends time with the river, picking his line.




British soccer fanatic Gerrard brings the passion for the game to the local kids.





Traditional longboat crosses over to the other side of the Sun Kosi River.




Best shower so far. Huge waterfall right behind the camp.




Head guide Kamal puts the Tika on Dhiraj's forehead as we were passing through on the beginning of Dahsain festival. Kamal put Tika on all of us which is a blessing of good luck.

 

Very large Nepali family that we tried to buy chickens from brought the Tika down for us so we joined in the Dahsain celebrations.

 

Sun Kosi from above.



Stopped at a temple on the las morning and a few of us tried to lift the 180kg holy rock with just two fingers.

Teamwork.



Tried it solo .... no problem. I think it was really only 80kg!



Last night on the Sun Kosi. Almost full moon light.



How many Nepali people can we fit in this one boat. I said 100.



Annapurna Range early morning post 23 hour bus ride as we enter Kathmandu.

As one river comes to an end, another is just around the corner. I will be on the Karnali for 10 days very soon. Nepal is unbelievable. There are no words right now. I will write when I am not so tired.

Namaste

A.